Painting Tutorial: Dark Age Barn

Painting the Dark Age Barn a step by step Tutorial by Mirco Wenning

 

Hello everybody to this Tutorial.

Painting the Barn is quite interesting because it contains many diffent materials.

I use different but simple techniques like painting basic colours, Washing and Drybrushing.

Especially the Weathering on a  building like the Barn is very important to achieve a realistic result.

In a final step I demonstrate how to do the planting by using different materials.

To minimize trouble with all the different paint ranges and paint range revises (GW) I will use generic colour descriptions like dark brown additionally I will put the name of the colour I use in parenthesis. The pictures will show exactly which colour I used.

So, let’s start!

Step 1: Preparation

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Assembly:

After cleaning all parts I glued the walls one after another to the base using Super Glue. Super Glue Activator helps a lot.

I did the same with the roofs. Don’t glue the roof to the walls otherwise painting the bottom side is a pain in the ass.

After that I cheked the right angle for the wooden roof topping by placing both pieces on the roof. Then I glued both ends together with the help of some clothes-pegs. I did the same with the remaining wooden beams.

Basecoat:

I basecoated all pieces with a black primer. Let it dry completely for at least 2 hours.

Now I sprayed a thin layer of whiter primer from above on all pieces which makes painting a lot easier because you can better identify shadows and light colours will have more grip.

Again let it dry for at least 2 hours.

 

Step 2: Basic colours

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Now let’s start painting.

One one hand I wanted to create a realistic look and on the other hand a good contrast between the main areas.

So I chose a mid brown (Steel Legion Drab) for the base, a light brown (Zandri Dust) for the wattle work and a dark brown grey (Charadon Granite) for the wooden parts.

Take a large brush and water down the paint. 2 thin layers are far better than one thick which destroys the details.

 

Step 3: Basic Colours

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For the roof i chose a bright yellow ochre (Averland Sunset) and again the dark brown grey (Charadon Granite) for the wooden beams and the roof topping.

 

Step 4: Washing

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Next step is to apply a Wash over everything. I took Strong Tone from Army Painter which is great like the old Devlin Mud from GW. Make sure that you have enough of it because you will need half a pot.

Take a large brush and apply a good amount of the Wash everywhere. It works best if it has enough fluidness to flow everywhere and dry slowly into the deepings. But take care not to use too much. Don’t create pools of Wash. In that case remove them with the brush.

 

Step 5: Drybrushing

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Let the Wash dry completely.

Now i drybrushed the washed areas using a large Drybrush (a cheap stiff-bristled brush is fine).

Take a little bit of paint and remove most of it on a piece of tissue. Now I drybrushed all area heavily with the following colours:

Bonewhite (Tyrant Skull) for the wattle work and the straw

Light brown (Zandri Dust) for the base

Mid grey (Codex Grey) for the wooden parts

 

Step 6: Drybrushing

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After that take bone white (Tyrant Skull) and drybrush a little bit more carefully the base and all wooden parts.

 

Step 7: Details

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Most of the paint job is already done at this stage. We only have to paint the details.

I wanted to have some variability in the wooden parts. So I took the different brown colours shown in the picture above and painted single shelves, branches and the 2 buckets with them.

The stones were painted black and the clay jug with a dark fleshtone (Tanned Flesh).

 

Step 8: Washing the details and Drybrushing

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Then I washed the details again with Strong Tone  from Army Painter.

I also drybrushed the stones with a mid grey (Codex Grey) using a smaller dry brush.

To achieve an older look to the wooden pars I drybrushed smaller areas where I think rain and wettness would concentrate with a mid green. Don’t forget the wooden roof toppling.

 

Step 9: Drybrushing the details

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I drybrushed the stones with pure white.

The wooden parts and the clay jug withe bone white.

The metal parts with dark metallic (Boltgun Metal).

And again the mossy parts with a light green yellow.

 

Step 10: Applying the roof

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Use Super Glue to glue the roof to the building. Double check that everything fits well together.

 

Step 11: Teddy fur

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Place the 2 big fur pieces to the roof sides and check the fitting.

Thin down PVA Glue with water but add just a bit that the PVA Glue becomes  a better spreadable levelling.

Take a big old brush and apply lots of PVA Glue to the bottom side of the teddy fur because it sucks a lot of it. Glue both pieces to the roof sides.

 

Step 13: Teddy fur

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Do the same with the smaller fur piece and make sure that you apply lots of PVA Glue.

Let it dry with some weighting for a least 3 hours. Yes you need some patience with this building.

 

Step 14: „Hairdressing“ the roof

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The teddy fur hair falls in one direction. Take a hairbrush or comb to brush the hair of the roof topping to both sides of the roof.

To work out the impression of seperate strow rows I used a short metal ruler and hold it parallel to the long roof sides in gaps of 2 cm.

I used small modelling scissors to cut along the ruler through half of the fur. To avoid a too  uniform look change the angle of cutting a little bit every time.

 

Step 15: PVA Glue

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Now comes a very important step. We will fix the fur structure with a mix of PVA Glue, water and paint.

You will need approximately 100 ml PVA Glue. Add 30 ml water and some light ochre. Enough to colour the PVA Glue completely. Mix the ochre seperately first otherwise the PVA Glue will brighten up the ochre.

Take a big brush and work the PVA GLue mix into the fur one row after the other and be careful not to apply the PVA to painted areas. You will need a lot of PVA Glue!

Take a smaller brush to work some more PVA Glue into the bottom side of the fur hair at the lower side of the roof.

Place and press the wooden roof topping an the wet fur.

Finally take some kind of modelling tool to change the structure of the fur here and there to make it look more irregular and interesting.

Add some weighten to the roof. I used a box and a 3 kg catalogue on top. Make sure that the pressure comes directly from above otherwise the roof topping  will slope to one side.

Let the roof dry for 2 days!

 

 

Step 16: Washing the roof

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When the roof is completely dry wash it with a mix of Armypainter’s Strong Tone and water (ratio 1:2). Make sure to catch all areas of the teddy fur.

Let it dry completely.

 

Step 17: Drybrushing the roof

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Heavily drybrush the straw using bone white (Skeleton Bone from Armypainter is brilliant) from left to the right. Make sure that your large drybrush is dry all the time.

 

Step 18: Weathering

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In a last painting step I used dry pigments (Weathering powder from NOCH) which is available at our online store. We highly recommend these pigments from Noch because of their quality and price. You get 8 different colours in this set.

Take a blank sheet of paper where you put some powder with a stiff-bristled brush.

You can easily mix the dry powders on the paper. All pigments are applied as a powder. There are other ways using pigments but normally I apply them dry.

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I started with the roof and mixed Grime together with Rust to get a dark brown. I applied the powder in the gaps of the straw rows.

After that take Moss and apply it everywhere you think rain would flow most. You really can’t use enough from the Moss powder. It’s the powder to achieve the best weathering results on all organic structures.

 

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After the roof I used lots of the Moss powder on the side walls and the base and even some of the Sand and Dust powder to smooth some colours like the walkway.

I never seal my painted terrain pieces with varnish. It destroys most of the weathering effect. Don’t be afraid to use unsealed terrain pieces for gaming I do the same for many years and nothing ever happend.

 

Step 19: Planting

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I like the look of Autumn so I select different Autumn basing products from Mini Natur.

I normally start with moss. For the Barn I used Moss pads late Autumn. I especially used a lot on the roof.

Followed by grass tufts (Grass tufts late Autumn and Grass tufts early Autumn).

Then I added single tufts of Blossom tufts Spring and white flowers.

At the back wall of the barn I glued som Ivy Summer.

In a last step I added lots of coloured birk seeds as leeves.

 

And that’s it. I took some time but I think it was worth the effort.

I hope you like this tutorial and if you have any questions drop me a line (mirco@stronghold-terrain.de).

 

Mirco

 

 

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Painting Tutorial: Breeding pool

Painting Tutorial: Breeding poolBreeding-pool-news

Hello hobbyist. First of all I want to say that I have written the tutorial in a way that if you want to get the pool quick on your gaming table you can stop after step 11.

Additionally you can reduce the number of shadings. If you want to spend some more time into the finish just continue.

The Breeding pool is cast in hard stone plaster. Thats a wonderful material for painting. It soaks paint which makes for example washing very easy and there is no need to basecoat the material.

On the other hand hard stone plaster is very hard but unflexible so it can break.

If you want to use the for wargaming or if you want to transport them a lot its a good idea to glue it on cardboard or thin plasticcard.

 

Step 1: The stones

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I like the Foundation paints a lot because the range has so many realistic, natural colours.

Firstly I use Tausept Ochre (Vallejo Heavy Ochre or Ochre Brown) as a basecoat for the stones. Dilute it with water with water at the ratio 1:1.

 

Step 2: The stones

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Wash the stones heavily with Devlin Mud (Vallejo Umber Shade Wash).

 

Step 3: The stones

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Drybrush the stones intensively with Tausept Ochre (Vallejo Heavy Ochre or Ochre Brown).

Thats a important step. If you drybrush it too little the overall effect will be too dark and the contrast with the following step will be too big.

So take the time to give it 3 or 4 rounds of drybrushing.

 

Step 4: The stones

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Drybrush with Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand).

Again thats a important step because at this point you define the overall looking of the pool.

 

Step 5: The base

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Mix Scorched Brown (Vallejo Charred Brown or German Black Brown) + Devlin Mud (Vallejo Umber Shade Wash) at a ratio of 1:1 and basecoat the base.

It doesn’t have to be a uniform result.

 

Step 6: The base

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Now lets finish the base. I wanted that it has darker and lighter areas.

To achieve that I gave some areas a heavier drybrushing and others a lighter.

I starteds with Tausept Ochre (Vallejo Heavy Ochre or Ochre Brown).

After that I used Khemri Brown (Vallejo US Field Drab).

… and finally Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand).

 

Step 7: Moss, roots and little stones

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I used Dark Angel Green (Vallejo Dark Green or Deep Green) as basecolour for the moss and drybrushed it afterword with Goblin Green (Vallejo Goblin Green or Light Green) and finally with Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand).

For the roots and little stones I used Chaos Black (Vallejo Chaos Black or Black) as the basecolour. After that I drybrushed the roots with Dheneb Stone (Vallejo Heavy Warm Grey) and the little stones with Astronomican Grey (Vallejo Heavy Bluegrey or Pale Bluegrey).

 

Step 8: Water

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I used Charadon Granite (Vallejo Heavy Charcoal or German Grey) as the basecolour.

Then I took a large Drybrush like the old Tank Brush from GW and drybrushed different areas of the water with Knarloc Green (Vallejo Heavy Green or Luftwaffe Ca Green). The Brush has to be very dry. Try to make little circles when you drybrush.

Next I do the some but even dryer and on smaller areas with a mix of Knarloc Green and Bleached Bone at a ratio of 1:1.

 

Step 9: Snake, Frog and water lilies

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I think this steps takes some time because you have to paint the all details like the snake and the frog but take the time because the result will be very rewarding.

The hunter and hunted story between the snake and the frog is the focus of the whole terrain piece. For that reason I chose a signal red for the snake:

Snake:

I started with Blood Red (Vallejo Bloody Red or Orange Red)

Next comes a wash with Devlan Mud (Vallejo Umber Shade Wash) and then again drybrushed Blood Red (Vallejo Bloody Red or Orange Red)

The little arrows were painted with Iyanden Darksun (Vallejo Heavy Gold Brown or Goldbrown) and highlighted with Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand).

Finally I used Skull White (Valeyo Dead White or White) for the eyes and a small dot Chaos Black (Vallejo Chaos Black or Black) for the pupils.

Water lilies:

Mix of Dark Angel Green (Vallejo Dark Green or Deep Green) and Goblin Green (Vallejo Goblin Green or Light Green) 1:1 as basecolour.

Wash with Devlin Mud (Vallejo Umber Shade Wash).

Highlights using Goblin Green (Vallejo Goblin Green or Light Green) and finally Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand). I painted thin lines like strokes in a Wheel.

For the bloom I used a mix Mechrite Red (Vallejo Heavy Red or Red) and Skull White (Vallejo Dead White or White)

Then I added more and more Skull White and pure Skull White in the end for the highlights

Finally I painted the little bloom in the middle with Golden Yellow (Vallejo Gold Yellow or Flat Yellow) followed by a highlight of Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale White).

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Frog:

It’s a good idea to search with Google some pictures of frogs to get a feeling how they look like.

Dark Angel Green (Vallejo Dark Green or Deep Green) as basecolour.

Wash with Devlin Mud (Yes I like that paint) (Vallejo Umber Shade Wash).

Next I mixed more and more Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale White) to the Dark Angel Green diluted the mix with some water and applied several shades. The brightest area is the one in the middle of the back.

I now added small dots with Chaos Black (Valleyo Chaos Black or Black) here and there and highlighted them with Fortress Grey (Vallejo Stone Wall Grey or Light Grey).

The belly and the eyes were painted with Skull White (Vallejo Dead White or White). The belly received a Wash with Devlin Mud (Vallejo Umber Shade Wash) and the pupils a dot with Chaos Black (Vallejo Chaos Black or Black).

 

Step 10: The symbols

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We are nearly there.

For the symbols I used Charadon Granite (Vallejo Heavy Charcoal or German Grey) as the basecolour.

After that I applied a wash with Badab Black (Vallejo Black Wash) on the symbols.

 

Step 11: The symbols

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Now I painted some highlights on the edges using diluted Hawk Turquise (Vallejo Falcon Turquoise or Turquoise).

Finally I used pure Bleaced Bone (Valleyo Bone White or Pale White) diluted with water for some last highlights here and there

 

Step 12: Weathering

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Using Weathering powder like the one from Noch makes the overall look of terrain pieces much more realistic because the look old and weathered.

Working with pigment powder is quite easy. Just take a medium sized drybrush and apply some powder here and there. Blow away spare powder

I used the beige powder to colour single stones

Then I carefully use some black powder to shade cracks, broken off parts and the stones of the inner side of the pool.

I think the greenish powder is the most importand and useful powder of the set and so I used a lot of it.

Using pigment powder doesn’t take much time and after some trials you gain experience fast.

I love working with them.

 

Step 13: Planting

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Finally I added several grass tufts Autumn from Noch using PVA-Glue. They come in two different shades.

Birch seeds are used as leeves. I take a tweezer catch a single seed dip it into some PVA-Glue and place it. If you like you can paint them afterwards.

The spiky thing is a piece of a chesnut hull.

 

Step 14: Water effect

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I used Watereffect from Noch. Its just a fluid that you have to apply.

Don’t use too much. I placed it at the open areas of the pool and dispersed it using an old brush. I even covered the snake a little bit.

Finally I scattert some green flock as common duckweed in the water.

 

 

Thats it.

Its some effort to paint the Breeding pool and do the planting but I think the result is very rewarding and you can try out different technics so its never becomes boring.

Mirco

 

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Painting Tutorial: Ruined building

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Painting Tutorial „Ruined building“ by Elmar Fischer

Welcome hobbyist to this painting tutorial. Its very straightforward showing simple but effective techniques like drybrushing and the extensive use of weathering with pigment powders.

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Step 1: Basic colours

I began painting by applying the basic colours.
The plastered areas received a basecoat of Codex Grey (Vallejo Cold Grey or Neutral Grey).

Followed by a heavy drybrushing with Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand)

Then I carefully painted the brickwork with a Red Gore (Vallejo Gorey Red or Vermillion).

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Step 2: Weathering

The final colouring was done with dry pigments. I brought a set with 8 very useful colours from NOCH. For me the use of dry pigments was a way to speed up the painting process comparing to drybrushing and washes. And I think the result is even better and more realistic.

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I used the following colours:

Number 5 with a little bit of number 4 for the plastering.

Number 2 and 3 with a little bit of number six for the bricks

Number 4 with a little bit of number 1 for the plastering of the backside

Number 1 and 7 for the weathering and dirt

I don’t use any varnish on my models. I apply the pigments with a brush (synthetic hair). When the dry pigments are rubbed on the surface with the brush the pigments stick very good to the model. Handling the models don’t leave pigments on the fingers or marks on the model. But I don’t handle my models to often.

It’s a good idea to varnish the model if you want to use it for wargaming but then apply more pigments because the varnish will take a bit of the weathering effect.

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Step 3: Rubble

Paint the pieces of rubble with Red Gore (Vallejo Gorey Red or Vermillion) for the bricks.

Basecoat all other areas with Adeptus Battlegrey (Vallejo Heavy Grey or Russion Uniform).

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Step 4: Rubble

Drybrush the rubble with Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand),

… Fortress Grey (Vallejo Stone Wall Grey or Light Grey),

… Khemri Brown (Vallejo Heavy Brown or US Field Drab).

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Step 5: Weathering the Rubble

Once again I used the dry pigments to achieve the final colours. The dusty and realistic look can’t be done with other painting technics so straightforward and fast.

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Step 6: Rubble

In a last step I added Bleached Bone (Vallejo Bone White or Pale Sand) to the bricks to simulate remaining plaster.

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Step 7: The Base

The base was painted using the same colours and painting technics as described for the rubble.

That was the final step. I hope you enjojed reading the tutorial and found it helpful. If you have any questions left send us an email.

 

Ciao Elmar

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Painting Tutorial: Sandbag emplacement

Sandbag-Tutorial

 

Painting Tutorial „Sandbag Emplacement“ by Elmar Fischer

I painted a second set of sandbagsrecently and took the chance to take some step-by-step pictures in the process. There are only a few simple steps affordable to paint the sandbags to look good and realistic.

Let’s start!

 

Step 1: Priming

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The sandbags are cast in a high quality light beige resin. After washing the models and letting them dry the first step was to prime them. I used a sprycan and gave the models a thin coat of white primer.

 

Step 2: First Wash

Sandbag-Tutorial-2

 

In a second step the whole model got a heavy dark brown wash. Because I sculpted and textured each sandbag individually this simple and fast step brings the structure and the details out very well.

The next picture shows two pieces after a wash with Devlan Mud (Games Workshop).

For those of you without Devlin Mud you take the new Agrax Earthshade fom GW or Umber Shade Wash from Vallejo.

 

Step 3: Second Wash

Sandbag-Tutorial-3

 

After that the pieces got a wash with heaviely thinned brown acrylic paint.

This works best if you add a little drop of dishwasher to the mix because this reduces the tenson of the water to make the wash flow far better.

 

Comparison

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In this picture you can compare the different different results done by the two washes. The left one was done with the thinned acrylic colour, the right got a wash with Devlan Mud. As a basis for the next steps the results of one washe is as good as the other.

You could even end the painting process at this stage and the models would look o.k. on the gaming board.

 

Step 4: Drybrushing

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Basecoate the wooden part with a dark Brown.

Then I carefully drybrushed the pieces with a mix of beige and white including the wooden part.

 

Step 5: Third Wash

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I intended to give the models a bit more contrast and aplied another wash.

This time I used a thinned down Devlan Mud (1 paint : 2 water).

 

Step 6: Weathering

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In a last step I used dry pigments (Weatheringpowder from NOCH) which is available at our online store to paint the areas where the sandbags are damaged.

I used the coulour Dust. Mix some of the powder with clear spirit using an old brush.

Then apply the mix to the damaged areas.

After drying you can remove obsolete pigments using an old brush with some of the clear spirit.

 

That was the final step. I hope you enjoyed reading the tutorial and found it helpful. If you have any questions left send us an email.

 

Ciao Elmar

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Painting Tutorial: Cobblestone road

 

I want to start this small tutorial with an advice. It is important to paint all parts of the copplestone streets in one go. As I had to learn from own experiance it is very difficult to get the identical look and colour tones if you don’t paint all parts together.

The Copplestonestreets are cast in a midgrey resin, so they have a perfect basecolour which makes basecoating unnecessary.

Before painting I recommend to clean the resin parts in warm water with a drop of dish-cleaner and let them dry properly.

 

Step 1:

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In a first step I primed the model with a black wash of thinned black enamel paint (50% Humbrol matt black, 50 % Terpentin).

This gave the streets the needed shadows and works as a good basis for further painting.

As you can see at the picture after this first and easy step the street looks very threedimensional and quite good.

Some of you might be satisfied with this effect and want to bring the models to your battlefield as soon as possible and stop painting at this stage.

 

Step 2:

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The second step is to drybrush the street with its maincolour and to add some highlights.

I used a selfmixed midgrey acrylic colour (for example GW Codex Grey/ValejoCold Grey or Neutral Grey). I used a piece of sponge (from an old blisterpack) to drybrush the colour to the raised parts of the stones. On big and even surfaces  this method is more easy and faster than doing this with a brush, but a brush works well also.

After that I added a very light drybrush for the highlights. This time I used a big brush and an light beige colour (GW Bleached Bone, Valejo Bone White or Pale Sand).

 

Step 3:

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In the third step I wanted to add different colours to single stones. This improves the look of the streets and make the impression more natural.

I carefuly coloured single stones with some of the following colours. This could be done as a drybrush or as a light wash.

  • Light blueish grey (GW Astronomican Grey, Valeyo Heavy Bluegrey or Pale Blue Grey
  • Dark grey (GW Adeptus Battlegrey, Valejo Heavy Grey or Russian Uniform)
  • Warm light brown (GW Dheneb Stone, Valejo Heavy Warmgry)
  • Light beige (GW Bleached Bone, Valejo Bone White or Pale Sand)

 

Step 4:

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The fourth and last step was giving the street a matt and dusty apperance.
For this I used my trusted Pigments (Patina Pulver from NOCH).

I gave the whole model a light drybrush with the colour Ash. I used a synthetic brush (Size 5) for this purpose.

I slightly rubbed the surface of the stones with my fingers so most of the the dust remains in the recesses between the copplestones.

 

Finally some additionel advises for gamers:

I usually don’t varnish my models because I  rarely use them for gaming and the sealer destroys a part of the pigment poulder effects.

To counteract this effect just use some mor pigment powder than you normally would.

The streets are designed as realistic as possible with thin sides.

If you want to use them heavily for battles or if you want to transport them a lot its a good idea to glue themon cardboard or thin plasticcard.

Ciao

Elmar

 

 

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